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1. Cut a small piece of crown with a compound slid miter saw. Abrasive blades are recommended.

2. Using a small piece of crown moulding, bed the moulding so it fits the ceiling and wall. Mark the ceiling and wall with a pencil. Repeat this step on every inside and outside corner.

3. For lengthy runs of crown, it is recommended to repeat step #2 half (1/2) of the distance from each inside or outside corner.

4. Pop lines around the entire room using a caulk box.

5. Beginning at the corners, drive #8 or #16 finish nails centered every 24”

6. One approved manufacturing method of installing interior moulding is the use of standard joint / drywall compound. Open bucket; do not mix with drill, paddle, or any other device. The compound needs to be stiff. Take a 6” putty knife and scoop compound into the grout bag. (Grout bags can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot for under $4.00)

7. Place moulding upside down and apply a 1/2" bed on both top and bottom edges. It is important to continuously place the bead of compound on the edge of moulding. Gaps that remain in the bead will need to be filled once the moulding is in place, adding additional time to installation.

8. The first pre-assembled inside corner is now ready to install. Place the pre-assembled inside corner on the nails and slide moulding toward the wall. Once the moulding contacts the wall, rotate the inside moulding corner towards the ceiling until compound oozes from both between wall & moulding and ceiling & moulding. The compound needs to form a uniform bond with both ceiling and wall, therefore do not apply excess pressure to the moulding.

9. After the pre-assembled inside corner is properly bedded, use a putty knife to remove excess compound from both ceiling and wall

10. With a damp ceramic tile grout sponge, gently wipe away excess compound. Wet sparingly, as too much moisture will cause shrinkage in the compound. Wipe off excess to create a smooth finish seam. (A ceramic tile grout sponge can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot).

11. You are now ready for the next piece of moulding.

12. Repeat steps 1-10 with full-length runs of moulding. Pay close attention to butt joints and make sure that the moulding matches at top and bottom edges, aligning across the entire moulding face. Extra time spent adjoining pieces properly will save time prepping and sanding joints.

13. There are two recommended methods to choose for butt joints:

a) The first method is to leave a 1/16” space between moulding pieces and then fill the joint with compound.

b) The second method is to butler both butt ends with compound and apply pressure from the end of the piece being installed until compound oozes out from the joint. Remove excess compound with a putty knife and wipe away with a damp grout sponge.

14. Let compound dry overnight. Remove nails from ceiling and wall. Use fine sandpaper to sand joints smooth. It is recommended after sanding to wipe the moulding with a damp sponge to remove sanding dust and any remaining compound on the moulding. This may take additional time, but is worth the end result. The mouldings are now ready for prime and paint.